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The IFC steamers carried many an important personage,
and one among them was the ill-fated King Thibaw on his
way to exile in November of 1885 on board the Thooriya
after the complete annexation of Burma by the British.
The next year Lord Dufferin, the Viceroy of India
travelled to Mandalay on the steamer Mindoon, and when
the captain heard that this very important guest liked
ox tail soup he gave orders to the ship's chef to make
sure of getting a good supply. There was indeed no lack
of oxtails on the trip for a dozen live oxen were
carried along to probably lose their tails one after the
other along the trip.
In 1889 the 25-year-old HRH the Duke of Clarence, Albert
Victor Christian Edward whom his doting grandmother
Queen Victoria called Eddy, came to India and afterwards
stopped off in Burma, travelling on the new IFC vessel
Beeloo. His father was the Prince of Wales at the time
who later became King Edward VII, and after his father
the Duke was next in line to the throne of the British
Empire. He was probably taken to see the ancient temples
of Bagan, but no doubt he had other things on his mind.
According to one official biography, the Duke's private
lifestyle was "dissipated" and he was known to frequent
brothels with his aristocratic friends. In 1889 several
grisly murders of prostitutes began the hunt for the
first known serial killer "Jack the Ripper" and wild
rumours began to circulate of the Duke being him. The
Royal Family sent him on a tour of India to avoid
further embarrassment but unfortunately, the trip was to
lead to more.
In India, he met and apparently fell in love with Mrs.
Margery Haddon, the wife of an engineer. The next year
she gave birth to a son she named Clarence Guy Gordon
Haddon. After the Duke's death, and with a few divorces
behind her, Mrs. Haddon declared the child to be the
bastard son of the Duke.
Being second in line to the throne after his father such
accusations were disastrous especially since he was
single at his time of death. Investigations were made
official reports given as to the falseness of the
accusations. The boy when he grew up also wrote a book
and made other public outcries that were soon stifled.
In 1891 the Duke became engaged to a beautiful princess
but had died of pneumonia the next year. His brother
George, one year younger, became the heir to the throne
and became King George V. While still the Prince of
Wales, he married the princess intended for his brother.
They were the grandparents of the present Queen
Elizabeth II.
This royal couple the Prince and Princess of Wales, also
came to visit India and Burma in 1906, taking the IFC
steamer Japan from Mandalay to Rangoon. In the same year
the Crown Prince of Thailand, then called Siam, took the
vessel Siam on his travels on the river.
By 1911, tourists have arrived in Myanmar and "E.M.P-B"….
what could be her name, this lady…Evelyn? Emily? Emma?
…. wrote of her trips on board an oil vessel captained
by her husband in delightful book "A Year on the
Irrawaddy."
The ship carried barrels of crude oil from Yenanchaung
oil fields of Central Myanmar to the refinery in Syriam
(now reverted to its original Burmese name Thanlyin) in
the south for the Burmah Oil Company.
She referred to her husband only as "Skipper" and thus
we remain in the dark of their names. Apparently only on
oil tankers could the skipper bring along his wife
In her book published in 1911 she remarked on a group of
American tourists she saw while having 'tiffin' or lunch
at the Strand Hotel: "they are unmistakeably Americans
and their wide sun-helmets with long gauze veils hanging
down behind, their cameras, blue goggles and umbrellas
look very serious and business like."
The IFC carried many varieties of cargo such as bales of
cotton, bags of rice, blocks of jade, lacquerware, silk,
tamarind, elephants, woven mats, maize, Jaggery palm
sugar, bullocks, marble Buddhas, oilcake, tobacco and
timber. Goods brought into Rangoon port by sea going
ships from Europe and carried upriver by the IFC were
automobiles, corrugated iron, the very necessary
condensed milk, matches, aluminium ware, sewing
machines, bicycles, soap, cigarettes, cement and the
most essential of drinks, whisky.
The first time the IFC transported elephants was in
1884, carrying them from Prome (now reverted to the
original Burmese name Pyay) to just across the river.
The charge was a hefty one hundred rupees for each of
the six mammoths for this barely one-mile trip. The crew
had some difficulty getting the elephants to board the
flat attached to the steamer: the gangplank had to be
heavily camouflaged with vines and creepers before they
would set one foot on it.
Once the steamer reached the other shore the six walked
off quite calmly and stood waiting on the bank as the
steamer returned to Prome. The captain however made the
mistake of sounding the horn when his ship reached the
middle of the river, at which point all of the
elephants, perhaps thinking the sound was some sort of
mating or distress call, trumpeted in reply and swam
after the steamer until they were all once again back in
Prome. There were no records of additional freight
charges paid for their second crossing.
After that early fiasco, the ship's horn was not sounded
in the vicinity whenever elephantine cargo had been
unloaded. Special flats had to be made for them on long
trips, for the iron flats became hot in the sun. A
four-inch deck of teak was always placed on the flats
when transporting elephants and they had enough water
splashed on them the whole day to keep them cool. Their
handlers travelled with them, keeping them happy with
juicy stalks of sugar cane, sweet bananas or ripe
tamarind fruit. The captains usually docked a bit
further away from human inhabitation when they carried
elephants, for hordes of excited and noisy people would
flock to see them, some paddling their canoes close to
the flats and unnerving the large and alive cargo.
In 1937 one Major Raven-Hart, a keen British canoeist
who had already paddled down the Nile and the
Mississippi decided to do the same on the Upper reaches
of the Irrawaddy from Myitkyina to Mandalay. As he was
building his canoe at Myitkyina, first he had to go
upriver by steamer as far along as he could and then
take the train to his destination. Paddling upriver on
that particular stretch of the Irrawaddy would be
impossible, because if the many weirs and rocks; it
would be bad enough coming down. A very observant and
humorous writer, he had a grand time on the IFC Java
which he wrote had "two decks, a main deck over the
shallow hull; an upper deck on a light, superstructure.
The forward part of this deck was open, as an
observation lounge."
The food, he wrote in his book "Canoe to Mandalay", was
very Scottish "with Dundee marmalade and porridge
daily." Dinners were elaborate meals, and accommodations
were excellent, "with nets and fans and real beds."
After one cold and grey drizzle the sun came up. He went
for a stroll to the 3rd class deck and saw the scene
"unwrapped itself like a gay butterfly": everyone was
dressed in silks and fine linen, the family circles
sitting on woven mats with "boxes and pillows marking
off and comfortably furnishing off each temporary
abode."
The men wore 'skirts' of clear-greens, blues and pinks
with white shirts. The women were in "gayer skirts,
figured and striped and patterned, below white bodices
of fine muslin, and wore gay flowers in their shiny
black hair, usually done in flat coils. Wherever I
looked, someone in the group seemed to be laughing and
the rest smiling in sympathy." He and a few of his
companions who were living in India, were astounded at
the friendliness of the people.
The locals preferred to travel in family groups on the
wide-open decks if they were not on official or business
trips, and on these occasions, they would normally take
Upper or Second Class cabins.
One famous Burmese nationalist and editor U Chit Maung
who lived in the colonial era and who was a shy
workaholic, was once persuaded by his wife the equally
famous writer Daw Ma Ma Lay to take a holiday. They took
an IFC steamer for part of the journey.
In the biography of her husband "A man like him" that
she wrote after his death in 1946, a book that remains a
classic, she said that in the Upper Class of the boat
there were only the two of them and two English
gentlemen from the Burmah Oil Company.
"At dinner", she wrote, "The captain sat at the head of
the table and he introduced us to the two English men.
They too were dressed for dinner. Ko Ko (endearment name
for husband or lover but meaning in fact 'Elder
Brother') sat with great dignity and silently ate his
dinner. I wondered if the others would think he knew not
a word of English as he sat there eating whatever the
steward put in front of him, and I alone carried the
conversation.
The gentleman sitting directly opposite asked me if I
were Burmese and I said yes, pure Burmese. He said that
western dress suited women only if the person were
well-formed but that Burmese dress complements anyone,
plumb or slender, and that the style and designs were
elegant and beautiful.
“The dresses worn in court are different from what we
wear nowadays,” I told them. “The royal costumes are
more beautiful and intricate.”
One of the English gentlemen described to his companion
the court dress he had once seen, and marvelled at the
gold and silver embroidery. I glanced sideways at Ko Ko
and smiled at him discreetly. Bit by bit I managed to
bring Ko Ko into the conversation and as soon as he got
on the subject of British rule, Ko Ko talked at length.
Both English gentlemen listened with interest to his
views. The captain excused himself as he had to look
after the ship but the two sat on asking him questions
until late into the night."
For nearly a hundred years, the IFC ran on Burmese
rivers and their vessels still do, plying up and down
the mighty rivers of Myanmar.
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